Chenin Blanc is a misaligned grape. For years France’s Loire Valley, where it originated, has been the only source of quality Chenin Blanc wines. Elsewhere, winemakers have focused more on its quantity than quality, as
it is a high yielding varietal that can tolerate heat, wind and insects. Ken Forrester is revamping this reputation, placing South Africa at the forefront of change for Chenin Blanc, having started this effort in 1994. He visited Toronto this summer to explain his philosophy, in conjunction with his agent Neil Fortes of Wine World Imports. He has become the pioneer in Chenin Blanc, the most widely grownvarietal in South Africa, accounting for almost one-third of the country’s output. But its name has been the source of confusion over the years. It was one of three varietals imported by the Dutch in 1655, which they labelled Groendruif (Semillon), Fransdruif and Steen. It turns out the third varietal was improperly named because the Dutch incorrectly linked it, instead of Fransdruig, to France’s Listan grape, evolving its name from ‘Listan’ to ‘De Steen’ and eventually ‘Steen’. It was only in 1963 that a viticulturalist in Stellenbosch matched the leaves of the third varietal
with those of Chenin Blanc and the third varietal was properly renamed.

If you would like to read this article in its entirety, please click here to subscribe to Elite Wine, Food & Travel. -- subscribe now --