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San Antonio is a city of contrasts. As the 2nd largest city in Texas, and the 7th largest in the U.S, it was named by NBC’s Today show as “one of the top 5 friendliest cities in America.
It also offers visitors a plethora of fabulous memories. Our own visit coincided with the 9th Annual New World Wine and Food Festival this past fall, when San Antonio Convention and Visitors Bureau highlighted all the rich history and cultural activities of San Antonio. Among the city’s many luxury hotels is the renowned Emily Morgan, a fine example of Gothic Revival Architecture in America. Located next door to The Alamo, it is steps from the San Antonio River Walk and close to the Rivercenter Mall. According to legend, prior to the battle of San Jacinto, Sam Houston sent amulatto slave named Emily Morgan into the Mexican camp to distract Santa Anna who was known to enjoy the company of women. His preoccupation with Emily enabled Texans to attain victory. The story (myth) gained popularity in the 1950 swith the revival of the song “The Yellow Rose of Texas”. Historian Margaret Swett Henson, however, contends that Emily Morgan was in fact Emily D. West, a free woman of colour who was contracted to James Morgan. The hotel is also on the Conde Nash Travelers Readers Choice Awards for top US hotels.
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Remember the Alamo!
The importance of the battle cry “Remember the Alamo!” cannot be understated. This resounding shout still symbolizes bravery and courage in the face of insurmountable odds. And it was this heavy sacrifice of human life, coupled with strong convictions and perseverance, which ultimately gained Texas its independence from Mexico and [was] instrumental in its admission to the Union. As a result of the Mexican War (1846-48), Mexico was required to give the U.S. lands which today are California, Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, and parts of other western states. Together with the Louisiana Purchase, annexation of Texas, resolution to the Oregon question, and Mexican Cession, the battle set the
course for the U.S. to evolve as a world power. Today, The Alamo is owned by the State of Texas and maintained by the Daughters of the Republic of Texas. It encompasses a complex of 4.162
acres, which comprises the two original structures that date back to the mission period, a gift museum, the DRT Library, meeting hall, gardens, and support facilities. Like many other museums, no photos are allowed to be taken inside Alamo church, a place of reverence and reflection. Historical buffs can immerse themselves in this shrine which pays tribute to such icons as David Crockett, or take in a splendid film about the 1836 battle at the IMAX theatre located in the Rivercenter Mall.
Culinary Fantasies
We were pleasantly surprised with the quality and variety of San Antonio fare. Just after check-in at the Emily Morgan Hotel, we were initiated with such mouth-watering delicacies as smoked salmon rillette in bagel cup with salmon caviar, marinated beef tenderloin on goat cheese crostini drizzled with truffle oil, buttermilk marinated lobster in steamed Bao with Hoisin-plum sauce and cold poached shrimp stuffed with oven dried cranberry-Boursin, all prepared by its talented executive chef, Shane Bruns. After these teasers, we proceeded to Hotel Valencia just a few short blocks away. There, tasting stations beckoned all the guests with typical Tex-Mex dishes before we boarded a barge docked below the hotel, along the Riverwalk, for a Vintner Cruise. During the relaxing cruise, Becker Vineyards proprietors Richard and Bunny Becker, poured a delightful Becker 2007 Chardonnay, made in a French style from vines originally planted in 1993. Pat Brennan, of Brennan Winery, served a 2005 Cabernet made from grapes grown on his 33-acre vineyard located three hours northwest of San Antonio. Created in a lighter style, the wine is smooth and goes down extremely well. The New World Wine & Food Festival affords visitors a chance to sample pre-set multi-course dinners with wine pairings at a variety of San Antonio’s most acclaimed restaurants. Our dinner was at Binn 555 Restaurant, located at 555 Bitters Road, with its eclectic menu of New American cuisine sprinkled with Spanish and Italian influence. Menus change every 3-4 weeks, although some signature dishes remain constant and, as always, high-quality and fresh ingredients are used. Two sister restaurants, the newest Tre Trattoria (Italian) and The Lodge, embrace the same philosophy for quality and variety. The restaurant is associated with 60-90 wineries in Oregon, which offer ‘aristocratic wines at democratic prices’. The wineries produce 162,000 bottles, which constitute 8% of Oregon’s wine industry. To accompany our superb meal prepared, by Chef Jason Dady and Jesse Perez, was the outstanding 2007 A to Z Pinot Gris, as well as the spectabular 2006 vintage. For a different taste, the 2006 A to Z Pinot Rosé also pleases the palate.
The Fig Tree Restaurant was our destination for a Winemaker Lunch.Overlooking the San Antonio River, the restaurant is one of the better known landmarks and is situated at 515 Villita. The last of the private dwellings in La Villita, it has had many owners over the years. Mr. and Mrs. Frank Phelps, who bought the home in 1970 as a personal residence, were later prompted to share the historical house with others, and have done so since 1971 when they opened the Fig Tree Restaurant. Their extensive wine list includes fine French and California wines, together with a selection of Pacific Northwest boutique wines, classic first growths from Bordeaux, and premier French Champagnes. Our lunch, prepared in the Canary Island fashion and enjoyed in the homey yet elegant surroundings, included: Foie Gras Carpaccio; poached diver scallop with Osetra Caviar Broth; Baked Sea Bream Filet; Roasted Lamb Tenderloin; and Bienmesable, Marzipan de lass Medianas, Suspiros Palmeros. Accompanying wines produced in Tenerife included: Brumas de Ayosa Listan Blanco Guimar Valley 2007; Frontos, Blanco Clasico 2007 DO Abona; and Vina Norte Crianza Tacoronte Acentejo 2004, to name but a few. This is a must-experience restaurant when in San Antonio!
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Mi Tierra
In 1941, Pete and Cruz Cortez established Mia Tierra, a three-table café which would cater to early rising workers and farmers. Located in Market Square of El Mercado, the owners’ children and grandchildren continue the family tradition of serving typical Mexican food along with a warm Texas welcome. Bedecked in Christmas lights year-round, the busy and lively locale now seats 500 and is open 24 hours a day. It’s worth a visit, even if it’s just for a drink from the Baroque designed bar, with its large selection of imported tequilas, beers and (of course) margaritas. If you
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fancy breakfast, treat yourself to fresh bread made by their master baker daily and throughout the day. You’ll want to take some home for friends and family to enjoy as well. For your listening enjoyment, strolling troubadours/musicians (who are independent of the restaurant), will takeyour request. For information/reservations, go to www.mitierra.com. El Mercado, the nation’s largest Mexican Market, features shops, restaurants, entertainment and more. You can also visit Museo Alameda, the Smithsonian-affiliated museum dedicated to Latino culture.
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Luncheon at Becker Vineyards
Dr. Richard Becker and his wife Bunny were gracious hosts at luncheon which featured scrumptious dishes by some of the festival’s chefs, paired with featured Becker and Pacific Northwest wines. The first course, prepared by Chef William Schmidt of Soleil Bistro & Wine Bar, was a Cinnamon Dusted Scallop on an Apple, Chestnut and Wild Mushroom Risotto which was paired with 2007 Becker Vineyards Viognier; 2006 A to Z Oregon Chardonnay (steel fermentation with no secondary fermentation), and 12th Edition Sokol Blosser Evolution (a blend of nine white wines).
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The second course of Air-dried Muscovy Duck Breast over Roasted Fall Vegetable Salad,created by Chef Gabriel Ibarra of Cappy’s, was married with 2006 Rex Hill Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, the impressive 2006 Erath Estate Pinot Noir, and the super 2004 Hogue Reserve Merlot. Assorted cheeses, provided by Fromage du Monde in Fredericksburg, went beautifully with the 2006 Amavi Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon made from estate vineyards and the 2004 Columbia-Crest Walter Clore Private Reserve, a compelling wine made with 40% Merlot and 60% Cabernet Sauvignon
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Completing the meal was a light and delicious Walnut, Almond and Pecan Crust Cheesecake with Mixed Berry Coli, made by Chef Jose Benita, of Bistro Thyme II. The accompanying 2005 Becker Vineyards Clementine, that sports a picture of wife Bunny on the label, is a late-harvest wine that is made with the Viognier grape variety.
The 29-acre Becker Vineyard produces grape varieties that include Chenin Blanc, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Scheurebe. As well, three acres of lavender are planted behind the winery, from which potpourris, sachets, soaps and oils are made and sold in their tasting room and gift shop. Special events, receptions and weddings can be held in the Lavender Haus Reception Hall, or you can take it outdoors on the winery lawn or on the verandah next to the Lavender Haus. Go to www.beckervineyards.com for complete details.
The Black Tie Event at the Grand Hyatt was a chance to put on our gladrags and be spoiled with a superb dinner in elegant surroundings. The silent and live auctions that followed benefited Child Advocates of SanAntonio, and Center for Foods of the Americas.
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New Trends in Mexican Cuisine
Guest chefs from Mexico turned up at The Café aladar restaurant, wherethey joined Chef Brian West in demonstrating the cuisine, colourful culture and rich flavours of their representative territories. Hailing from La Palobar Café, known for its one-bite tapas and now also for innovation, Chef Alejandro prepared fish marinated in oil and lemon juice for 40 minutes. From Encelada Caibas Restaurant-Vineyard, Chef Benito Molena, who is trying to bring in Mexican chefs to showcase new recipes that encourage interchange of talents, also demonstrated his talents. As the chefs wielded their knives, and prepared the food on a portable burner, we were amazed with the swiftness and quality of the end-result which, of course, we were quite happy to sample! More than 30 chefs took part in the New World Grand Tasting at The Grotto, Henry B. Gonzalez Convention Center, giving us a chance to sample some prime examples of what is the best in cuisine from San Antonio and its surrounding areas, alongside wines from arond the world.
| This gastronomical journey, which was as delightful as it was tasty, is not to be missed. Sunday brunch at Biga on the Banks, in operation since 1991, was a blend of a vast array of tempting appetizers and salads from its buffet tables, followed with a selection of entrée items on their menu all of which are prepared by Owner/chef Bruce J. Auden. Our choice was the roast beef rib ye, apple smoked bacon and spinach stuffed otatoes, broccoli, horseradish crispy onions, jammy tomatoes, mint marigold béarnaise, house steak sauce. Now, don’t you wish you were there?! You can be, the next time you’re in San Antonio. Visit www.biga.com to find out more. A great finish to the festival was a trip to Rio Cibolo Ranch, about 40 minutes north of San Antonio, for its “Totally Tejas” event that featured Texas food and wine. For an admission fee of $45.00, guests can purchase local crafts, sample foods including their legendary pecans [we had a great ‘warm’ mozzarella], or just chill out with a pint of the local brew. Of course, there are Texan wines to enjoy as well under the tent. Intended for the entire family, events also include a petting zoo, hayride, a storyteller and a putting course. A River Runs Through It Next to the Alamo, the Riverwalk is this city’s most popular attraction. And nowonder. Allow yourself ample time to leisurely strolls along its original 3miles of river. Of course, a barge cruise will take considerably less and you can absorb the enchanting views in complete comfort. It’s much like the life of a ‘couch potato’, but in much more pleasing surroundings. Something of a record was set by the construction along the river of the 500-room Hilton Palacio del Rio, which was completed in 202 days. You can also visit the Arneson River Theatre, open year-round, and recognized by its five bells which represent the five missions in San Antonio. The Riverwalk comes alive in the winter, when thousands of lights are lit the day after Thanksgiving. To wind down from all the activities, visitors can treat themselves to a signature spa treatment at Watermark Spa, the only world-class spa in the heart of San Antonio. Featuring 19 private treatment Rooms, a hydrotherapytub, and an outdoor spa poolside café with rooftop views of the city one can be truly pampered in style. No doubt about it, San Antonio has all the makings of a great vacation destination - food, wine, great hospitality and many things to see and do.
Think about it for your next trip!
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Anna Cavaliere, Editor/Writer Editor/Writer since 1992 for Enoteca Wine & Food Magazine (now Elite Wine, Food & Travel), Anna has reported on wine and food events from many of the world's wine regions: Australia, New Zealand, Portugal, France, Spain, Malta, Greece, Italy, U.S. and Canada. A member of the International Federation of Wine and Spirits Journalists and Writers (F.I.J.E.V.), and I.F.W.T.W.A. (International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association). Anna feels particularly fortunate that she can write about her three passions: wine, food, and travel.
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